Two Climbers, Two Feet and Two Mountains: Guest Blog by Climber Chad Butrick

Chad Butrick takes in the sights from the top of the Uncompahgre Gorge in Ouray, Colo., on Feb. 11, 2010.

For over two months I have been documenting two disabled climbers train and prepare to do what some think to be impossible or just simply preposterous.  Butrick and climbing partner Chad Jukes, hope to be the first all disabled climbing team to climb three formidable technical ice routes on two mountains in the Ruth Gorge in the Alaska Range. The story has been told largely through my words and images. Sure I’ve pretended to be a reporter and use quotes to help bridge the gap between my world and that of the two Chads. But, I could never pretend to tell this story as well as the people who have set out to laugh in the face of their injuries.

In this installment I am handing over the reigns to Chad Butrick to tell you about this endeavor in his own words with my images.  With out further ado, Mr. Chad Butrick. (crowd cheers here) Check out the gallery of Chad Butrick at bottom of this post. Some pictures you have already seen and others are new. Enjoy.

If you have any questions for Chad please comment on the blog and he will answer as best as he can.

In Chad’s Words.

Chad Butrick sinks his pick into the ice while leading the fourth pitch of Horsetail Falls on Red Mountain Pass south of Ouray, Colo., on Feb. 18, 2010.

September 13, 2005 changed my life. I was traveling from Kansas City, Mo., to Columbia, Mo., to complete a private investigation. During that time I worked for First Advantage Investigative Services conducting all sorts of private investigations. Approximately, 40 miles from Columbia I was involved in a motor vehicle collision. My life was changed – after a life flight, ambulance ride, five surgeries, intravenous antibiotics, 4 months (one and a half of those in a hospital) I woke up in a hospital bed facing the reality that I would be an amputee for the rest of my life. Twenty eight years old and I was disabled.

The outdoors have always drawn me in. I remember when my parents told me that we were moving to Montana. We were camped at Round Lake in Idaho. My brother Curtis and I were in an old Army style green tent. I was pumped and with good reason. I had fun with the outdoors in Montana. Whether it was climbing up to the cliffs behind the water tower, riding a bike out to the lake to catch dinner, or the failed attempt to climb Ksanka peak (unbeknownst to my parents) living in Montana was great. We moved from Montana when I was 16 to the midwest. I missed the mountains but found my place in the midwest.

“To those who have struggled with them, the mountains reveal beauties that they will not disclose to those who make no effort. That is the reward the mountains give to effort. And it is because they have so much to give and give it so lavishly to those who will wrestle with them that men love the mountains and go back to them again and again. The mountains reserve their choice gifts for those who stand upon their summits.” — Sir Francis Younghusband

During the convalescence, the weight of my new reality was fully on me. What did life look like after loosing a leg? What would I do and how would I do it? After asking my nurse case manager how I was ever going to hike or climb again she told me, “Get new hobbies.” Right then and there I made the choice to take control of my life and chase my dreams. To never take no for an answer and to show that disabled does not mean unabled. I had tasted the choice gifts that the mountains had to offer. I would like to thank that nurse case manager, you motivated me more than you know. I knew the struggle and some how in the weakness of my situation I would endure the struggle and continue to wrestle with the mountains. It is funny to me how weakness has the potential to bring strength.

Fast forward to early Jan 2010 I am working with my parents building a deck on my house and I get a call from my friend Chad Jukes. I had met Chad during an Ice Climbing event sponsored by Paradox Sports in Ouray CO. Chad got right to the point and asked me if I was up for climbing in Alaska. It took me half a second to decide and here we are training for the climb of our life. (so far)

Alaska is this whole other world that I have only dreamed about. On a trip to South Korea I landed in Anchorage on a lay over. I remember staring at Mt. McKinley out of the window of the plane thinking that I would be there one day. It is truly and honor to participate in a climb like this and fulfill a dream. I am also honored that I have the opportunity to help a worthy non-profit (Amped Outdoors) as they assist other individuals with disabilities with their ice climbing program.

I would also like to thank Black Diamond, Paradox Sports and the other sponsors that are on board. You are making this possible. Thank you so much for your support.

Climb on!

Chad Butrick takes in the sights from the top of the Uncompahgre Gorge in Ouray, Colo., on Feb. 11, 2010.

Chad Butrick sinks his pick into the ice while leading the fourth pitch of Horsetail Falls on Red Mountain Pass south of Ouray, Colo., on Feb. 18, 2010.

Chad Butrick, left, discusses his prosthetic limb with Chris Folsom, founder of Amped Outdoors, after dinner at the Buen Tiempo in Ouray, Colo., on Feb.6, 2010.

Chad Butrick gives the thumbs-up gesture after climbing Tangled Up in Blue in the Ouray Ice Park on March 12, 2010.

Chad Butrick climbs to the top of the first pitch as his partner, Chad Jukes belays in the Ouray Ice Park on Feb. 10, 2010.

Chad Butrick, left, gets the fist bump from Chad Jukes after climbing in Ouray, Colo., on Feb. 10, 2010.

Chad Butrick demonstrates strengthening and balance exercises from a booth at Mouse’s Chocolates in Ouray, Colo., on Feb. 11, 2010.

Chad Butrick leads a pitch in the Ouray Ice Park as Mark Miller solos next to him on Feb. 16, 2010.

Chad Butrick leads a pitch in the Ouray Ice Park as Chad Jukes belays on Feb. 16, 2010.

Chad Butrck trades out his crampon with his foot prosthesis after a day of climbing in the Ouray Ice Park on Feb. 16, 2010.

Chad Butrick receives a curious look from a young spectator at the Ouray Ice Park on Feb. 17, 2010.

Chad Butrick nears the first pitch of Horsetail Falls on Red Mountain Pass south of Ouray, Colo., on Feb. 18, 2010.

Chad Jukes, left, and Chad Butrick, right, prepare to climb Horsetail Falls south of Ouray, Colo., on Feb. 18, 2010.

Chad Butrick leads the second pitch of Horsetail Falls as Chad Jukes belays on Feb. 18, 2010.

Chad Butrick nears the top of the fourth pitch of Horsetail Falls on Red Mountain Pass south of Ouray, COlo., on Feb. 18, 2010.

Chad Butrick nears the top of the fourth pitch of Horsetail Falls on Red Mountain Pass south of Ouray, Colo., on Feb. 18, 2010.

Chad Butrick laughs as he belays Chad Butrick to the top of the final pitch of Horsetail Falls on Red Mountain Pass south of Ouray, Colo., on Feb. 18, 2010.

Chad Butrick hops his way to the chair after a soak in the hot tub in Arvada, Colo., on March 8, 2010.

Chad Butrick leads a route in the Ouray Ice Park on March 9, 2010.

Chad Butrick top ropes a mixed climb in the Ouray Ice Park on March 10, 2010.

Chad Butrick top ropes a mixed climb in the Ouray Ice Park on March 10, 2010.

Chad Butrick enjoys a cup of coffee on Main Street in Ouray, Colo., on March 11, 2010.

Chad Butrick, right, tosses a prosthesis to Chad Jukes at the Ouray Ice Park on March 11, 2010.

Chad Butrick enjoys a laugh in the parking lot at the Ouray Ice Park on Feb. 11, 2010.

Chad Butrick leads Tangled Up in Blue in the Ouray Ice Park on March 12, 2010.

Chad Butrick holds up the “Gimp Size” beer at the Ourayle House in Ouray, Colo., on March 12, 2010.

Chad Butrick stacks the rope at the Ouray Ice Park on Feb. 9, 2010.

Chad Butrick coils a rope after a day of climbing at the Ouray Ice Park on Feb. 9, 2010.

Chad Butrick changes out his prosthesis after a day of climbing in the Ouray Ice Park on Feb. 9, 2010.

Two Climbers, Two Feet and Two Mountains: The Idea

Chad Butrick removes his prosthetic limb after a day of ice climbing in Ouray, Colo., on Feb. 18, 2010

With the new year came a new direction for my professional photography career.  In August 2009 after two years on staff with the Gannett owned daily newspaper, The Coloradoan, I lost my job. At the time I was devastated now I’m thankful.

Chad Jukes leads a pitch in the Ouray Ice Park on Feb. 16, 2010.

I spent nearly four months trying to find a place in the growing freelance market in a declining newspaper industry that was already saturated with many talented, out-of-work photographers. It was a simple trip over the New Year holiday to the mountains in Ouray, Colo., to get away, go climbing and clear my head that turned into a story opportunity that would satiate any photojournalist’s thirst to tell a meaningful story.  A story opportunity that would bring my two passions of climbing and photography together, again, .

As most of my friends and colleagues know, I am always looking for a new documentary project to occupy my life for a few months. In early January an old friend, climbing guide and co-founder of the non profit organization, Amped Outdoors, Mark Miller, approached me with an ambitious climbing trip to the Ruth Gorge in Alaska. The idea; two climbers, three technical ice routes on two formidable mountains, unassisted deep in the remote Alaska Range in just a 12 day window. The magnitude of the proposed trip took on a new dimension when Miller told me the climbers are both right leg  amputees below the knee. The proposed trip and time line is ambitious for any able climber with full use of all limbs never mind two disabled climbers with only two left feet between the two of them. Miller then asked me, “would you like to document it?” DUH, no brainer! YES!

Above photo: Chad Butrick, 33, left and Chad Jukes, 25, right, enjoy a beer at O’Brien’s Pub after a day of training in Ouray, Colo., on Feb. 9, 2010.

The climbers: Chad Butrick, 33, of Arvada, Colo., lost his right-leg, below the knee in an automobile accident in Missouri in 2005. Chad Jukes, 25, of Logan, Utah, lost his right-leg below the knee while serving in the Army in Iraq in 2006 after his vehicle hit an IED berried in a pot hole that severely fractured his leg.

Fast forward a month. On Feb. 8, 2010, Chad Jukes, 25, of Logan, Utah and Chad Butrick, 33, of Arvada, Colo., traveled to Ouray, Colo., to meet each other and begin training for the daunting climbs they have set for themselves in May. Jukes and Butrick were brought together by Amped Outdoors for this climb to highlight the progress in prosthesis technology and more importantly the triumph of the human spirit. Or better stated by Butrick, “to highlight the huge progression and recent developments in adaptive sports by taking the ice climbing skills learned in events such as Gimps on Ice, (A WORKSHOP FOR AMPUTATED ICE CLIMBERS RUN BY AMPED OUTDOORS) or through adaptive educational programs like Amped Outdoors; then implementing the use of the developed expertise on ice routes located deep within the wilderness of Alaska. This progression illustrating the value adaptive programs can provide to instill self-reliance, confidence, and technical skills to overcome seemingly impossible obstacles.”

Jukes and Butrick plan to spend the next two months preparing and training to operate in the harsh and remote Ruth Gorge in the Alaska Range and I plan to document every step of the way. I hope, through this blog that I can keep people informed on the progress of the climbers’ training and the process of documenting the first all disabled unassisted climb of the North Coulior on the Mini Moonflower and the Moose’s Tooth in May 2010 as the sole photographer. So if you have any questions or comments, I would love to hear it.

special photographer’s note,

I’m holding my show stopper photos off the blog site in order to publish later. Click on image to view large.

Chad Butrick leads a pitch in the Ouray Ice Park on Feb. 16, 2010.

Chad Jukes leads the third pitch of Horsetail Falls on Red Mountain Pass south of Ouray, Colo., on Feb. 18, 2010.